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When I visited Rome, Michele was preparing this year’s Cruise collection, which was to be shown later in the spring, in London. In an alcove above his office desk, he had propped one of the inspirations for the collection: a small English painting, from the early seventeenth century, of a youthful figure of indeterminate gender, dressed in a ruff collar and a tomato-red jacket ornamented with gold stitching and buttons. The youth’s face was realistically rendered but the body was stylized, with awkwardly braced elbows. The figure held a prayer book that looked remarkably like an iPhone. “It is a young guy who looks like a girl, because, at that time, until you were older, you were completely dressed like a girl,” Michele said. He has striking looks himself—long, thick dark hair and a heavy beard, like Christ as rendered by Leonardo, with a voluptuous mouth.
He speaks excellent English, with the sort of colorful idiosyncrasies to be expected from someone who hones his grasp of the language by reading a nineteenth-century English translation of fourteenth-century Italian literature. Scarface world is yours ps2 iso torrent. He said of the painting, “The face, it’s softer, more real—like Italian Renaissance painting, but the body is still a very Northern European pose—it’s very flat. I prefer this to a lot of Italian painting, because it is more that you are inventing the character.
It’s more unreal. The body is more like a sheet of paper.”. Michele’s collections for Gucci offer a startling miscellany of styles inflected with a high-end vintage sensibility. Photograph by Paolo Pellegrin / Magnum for the New Yorker Adjusting the music that was emanating from the speaker of his iPhone—the Smiths—Michele got up from his seat to make more refinements. He snipped off a black velvet bow that was attached to a dress’s neckline and moved it a few inches down the breastbone. After examining a black-and-gold dress, he grabbed bits of black velvet and stiff tulle and improvised a pair of cap sleeves, creating a striking sculptural shape. Sometimes he took out his phone to snap a photograph of a detail.
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Michele has more than seventy-five thousand followers on Instagram, and his account is unusually esoteric. A closeup of his own feet inside black Mary Janes with silver snake buckles is intermixed with images of albino peacocks, Baroque sculptures, and seventeenth-century paintings. (In December, the Web site Fashionista declared, “Why the Hell Isn’t Everyone Following Alessandro Michele on Instagram?”) In the studio, Michele’s manner was collaborative rather than imperious. After surveying the dresses, he and Davide Renne, the designer of the women’s ready-to-wear collection, sifted through bolts of fabric—a visual migraine of chinoiserie, psychedelia, and plaid—making selections for designs that had yet to be conceived.
Michele admired a bright-green print featuring elephants, monkeys, and birds. Another fabric consisted of the Union Jack blotted with black silhouettes of parrots, like images from a Rorschach test. “For the Queen,” Michele said, with a smile.